Arrecife—the overlooked capital

Arrecife is Lanzarote's capital and economic center—and is overlooked by most tourists. This is understandable on one hand (the competition on the island is fierce), but also a shame: Arrecife has authentic Canarian city life, a pretty waterfront promenade, two fortresses, and a surprisingly good restaurant scene.

Sights

Charco de San Ginés: The heart of the city—a natural lagoon surrounded by whitewashed fishermen's houses with colorful shutters. In the evening, when the lanterns reflect in the still water, the Charco is one of the most atmospheric places in Lanzarote. A small artisan market takes place here on Saturdays.

Castillo de San José: Transformed by Manrique into the Museum of Contemporary Art (MIAC), the 18th-century fortress houses works by Picasso, Miró, Tàpies, and Canarian artists. In the basement: the Restaurante Castillo de San José with a glass front to the sea—excellent cuisine in a unique atmosphere (main courses 15–25 €). Museum admission: 4 €.

Castillo de San Gabriel: Small fortress on a nearby island, connected by the Puente de las Bolas (Ball Bridge). Pretty archaeological museum (3 €), but mainly worth visiting for the walk across the bridge.

Beach promenade & Playa del Reducto: Arrecife's city beach is surprisingly good: 450 m of fine sand, calm water, promenade with cafés. Not comparable to Papagayo, but perfectly adequate for a refreshment after a city stroll.