César Manrique—Art and Nature as One

Manrique's masterpiece and the place that best embodies his vision. The Jameos del Agua are an underground cave system, formed by a lava flow from the Monte Corona volcano around 3,000 years ago. In the 1960s, Manrique transformed the collapsed lava caves (Jameos) into a stunning cultural center:

• The underground lake: In the first cave lies a natural saltwater lake, home to the world's unique blind albino crabs (Munidopsis polymorpha)—tiny, white crustaceans that exist only here and in no other body of water on Earth. The lake is illuminated emerald green.
• The garden and pool: In the open Jameo (collapsed cave roof), Manrique created a tropical garden with a snow-white swimming pool, framed by black lava and palm trees. Unfortunately, swimming is not allowed, but the sight is iconic.
• The concert hall: In the deepest cave is an auditorium with 600 seats and acoustics that attract musicians from around the world. Regular concerts (program on the website).
• Casa de los Volcanes: Interactive science museum about volcanism in the upper area.

On the northern tip of Lanzarote, 475 meters above the sea, Manrique created this viewpoint in an old artillery position from the 19th century in 1973. From the outside, the Mirador is almost invisible—built into the rock and camouflaged with lava stone. Only when you enter does a breathtaking panorama open up: Through the arched glass front, you look down on the El Río strait, Isla Graciosa, the Salinas del Río, and on clear days up to the islands Montaña Clara and Alegranza.

The interior is typical Manrique: organic shapes, white plastered walls that merge with the rock walls, a café in the rock dome. Everything looks as if the viewpoint had grown naturally rather than being built.

Honest assessment: The entrance fee (5 €) is criticized by some as overpriced—especially since you can have the same view 200 meters further for free from the cliff edge. BUT: The architectural experience, the Manrique aesthetic, and the café with panoramic windows are absolutely worth it. If you only want the view, you can also drive to the free Mirador de Guinate (less spectacular, but free).

Manrique's former residence in Tahíche has been a foundation and museum since his death (1992, car accident) — and perhaps the most impressive place to grasp his genius. The house was built on and in a lava flow: The upper rooms (white, flooded with light, with works by Manrique, Picasso, Miró, Tàpies) transition into five underground bubbles — natural cavities in the solidified lava flow that Manrique repurposed into living spaces.

Each lava bubble has its own theme: one is a living room with a fig tree growing through the open ceiling; another a swimming pool in black lava; a third a dance floor (yes, Manrique loved to celebrate). The transition from the natural lava structure to human living space is seamless and astonishing — one immediately understands why Manrique is considered a genius.

On the upper floor: changing art exhibitions and the sculpture garden. Plan for at least 1.5 hours.